Heat is the enemy of electronics, and the cure is heat sinks. I some
times get over zealous with them. If the chip is worm to hot to the
touch, it gets a block of copper. If the chip is cooking eggs, it gets
active cooling, if not replaced with a cooler running part. The ketch
22 is, making absolutely certain beyond any question of a doubt that if
the sticky stuff doesn't hold or otherwise, The metal heat sink dose
NOT short out any thing it could passably try to touch while in
operation or failure.
I find that hot gluing a dead plugs pins in place in a dummy drive,
then using that plug as an alignment tool while hot gluing fan plug
pins in place, makes plugging the fans into the power supply much
easier. It is important that the alignment plugs pins be as centered as
possible every use. Never let the glue in the alignment tool get hot
from rapid use, the pins will try to stray whatever direction the wire
in the attached plug is nudging them if the glue melts. Add to that,
most hard drive plugs are only rated for fifty plug/unplug cycles. If
the Alignment plug tool feels loose, make another one from a dead PSU,
don't risk wasting all that hard work over a over used plug.
Yes that is allot of computers in one place to connect to BOINC's
servers, thanks to lots of hubs and a proxy server, there all happy
with lots of work to do.
This DS108 hub had been running 24/7 for over two years since I got it
used, before I decided to open it up and look around. The black heat
sink got a little worm for my comfort, so I opened up the case for some
air flow, then got distracted by all them cute little sticky copper
This hub dose the job fine, considering it is connecting computers to a
modem that only supports Tbase10. I figured I'd try an internal
heat sink on the cover setup for cooling the hubs guts, works
beautifully so far. Unlike the DS108, this hub dose NOT
have any kind of voltage regulation in side it. That floppy drive thing
behind it houses a LM7805, caps, and chokes, so the hub can operate
directly off the on site power buss. The regulator is identical to the
picture of the 9v fan regulator on my power supplies, just with a fuse
and allot of heat shrink stuff.
This was a Tbase10 rack mount hub that was given to me. After replacing
almost the entire power supply board, and deleting the unused 12V rail
from it, the hub worked again. The hub seams to have two separate 8
port chips linked together some how, I put the chip set heat sinks on
them for good measure.
This is a Linksys WRT54G, with some cooling mods. I've seen allot of
Consumer Linksys switches and routers die from prolonged heavy network
loads. The design fault seams to be a serious lack of cooling for the
voltage regulators chips.
Why dose no one make a Tbast100+ hub or switch with ALL the plugs on
the back, and a Network load "Bar Graph Display" on the front? not a
blinking idiot light, a full fledged no stop watch required, network
load/utilization Bar Graph Display. Centrecom use to have them on there
Tbase10 MR820TR hubs, Why not on faster
hubs and switches?
When NEZ has an
When NEZ gets an upgrade, there usually is an international shortage of
a particular processor for a few months.
This is just a joke involving the #1 BOINC user, and some fab pictures
I found on the net.
Please just take the joke for what it is, a joke. I am NOT "NEZ", nor
do I know the entity known on the boinc-forums as "NEZ".
The drive slide things are cool I guess. However when there clipped in
a row at the bottom of the case like a bank of reeds, ready to resonate
and buzz to the beat of every thing else in the computer. I think not,
light's up well, and looks cool. for the first three months.
three months of heavy use, the paint started to ware off the
keys. Probably wont happen with light to no use. I should have used
that fingernail polish trick on these keyboards. No you can't have my
keyboards with out paying me the $55/each I paid for them. I'm keeping
my keyboards. The Saitek's seam to love drinking coffee, gets the gunk
between the keys.
can't fix stupid. That tab is/was there for a reason.
I guess round hard drive cables lack the strength of ribbons.
Tugging the cable rather then the tab, will break the fragile tinny
wires. Then no hard drive will work on the cable, without replacing the
cable. Why did I bother replacing the hard drive in this computer, the
hard drive cooked with the cable.
So why do people insist on slamming the reset button on there computer.
So it will break in the engaged position, forcing the computer to never
start up again till the reset button is fixed. Good thing I have a
hot-glue-gun. It's made of plastic,
get a clue!
Apparently reinforced pored concrete furniture is the only thing some
people wont break.